Longboard, shortboard, bodyboard...I do em all, but longboarding's my favorite.
Sunset was 15-20 feet 3 times this week. Sadly, I was stuck in the office...BOO....
Winter's always my favorite time of the year because of the famous winter swells. I've never surfed anything bigger than 8, but it's always nice to watch the experts safely from the shore. We normally don't get anything bigger than 6-8 in town, so a drive out to the "country" is necessary to see the big ones.
Having paradise as my backyard is kinda cool.